I am always surprised when people ask whether you are safe in Saudi Arabia. Saudis do not have the right to bear arms, the penalty for murder is public beheading, and the society is generally not as influenced by the violent entertainment which is prevalent in the Western world. So when I point out that, apart from being in a region of the world where there are currently two wars being fought (maybe more, depending on what you consider a "war"), most of the women and men we have recruited report that, on a day-to-day basis, they personally feel much safer in Saudi Arabia than they do in Toronto, or Atlanta, or any other North American city. They feel they will not be shot on the street, have a child grabbed, their home broken into, their purse snatched, etc. Although Saudi Arabia has other social practices alien to Westerners, random violence against strangers on the streets is a real rarity.
Contrary to common belief, you don't earn zillions of dollars in Saudi Arabia. This doesn't stop people from trying: One man, a laborer, asked for a job at $1,000/day. A department manager (who earns $140,000) asked for $465,000 per year (plus a house with several more bedrooms than he has family members, a maid, etc.). Another person, a doctor, asked for housing with "a baby grand piano, not an upright." The reality is that, with a few exceptions, the salaries for middle-management and staff-level positions (non-MD) are approximately the same as one would earn in the USA or Canada. The countries for which we recruit are not war zones, so there is no danger, hardship, or hazard pay provided. The major financial benefits are the tax-free status, paid housing, and significantly more holiday time. The major non-financial benefit is having a life-enhancing experience.
Americans regularly ask whether Arabs, Saudis, or Muslims "hate Americans." Yes, Arabs and Muslims in general are hostile to the foreign policy of the United States as it relates to the Middle East, particularly America's official, unquestioned support of Israel's actions towards the Palestinians and their uncaring attitude towards the plight of the Palestinians. But on an individual basis, the Saudis admire the can-do attitude, the openness, and the professional expertise for which Americans are known. Many Saudis do post-graduate training in healthcare, in business, and in management in the United States. Person to person, Saudis welcome Americans. (And yes, you must drink at least one glass of the special cardamom coffee when it is offered, which, I confess to not liking — I prefer the shot glass of syrupy sweet mint tea.)
Another common question, particularly from women, is "Am I restricted to my housing compound?" Absolutely not. You can travel freely throughout Riyadh, Jeddah, and the other cities. Really, mosques are the only public place women and non-Muslims are typically forbidden from entering — but occasionally one may be invited in to see the mosque outside of prayer time, as three of my staff were several years ago. Also, men are not allowed to enter women-only shopping areas, bank branches, etc. And in Jeddah, there is a beach that is restricted for the use of people from Western countries. And yes, women can travel alone - they don't have to be in the company of a male relative.
People also often are under the mistaken belief that Saudi Arabia is backward technologically. However, Saudis love their electronic gadgets; they are avid watchers of satellite TV; they were early adopters of the internet; and it's not uncommon to see people, like gunslingers of the old west, whip out two cell phones when a phone starts ringing.
But perhaps the greatest misconception is that women are oppressed. But "oppressed" is in the eye of the "experiencer," not in the eye of the beholder. For example, Saudi women are not currently permitted to drive (though women can drive in other Gulf states) — some would like to drive, others don't, and don't see why Westerners make such a big deal out of it. (I know that my female staff have specifically said they would NOT want to drive in Saudi Arabia.) In Saudi Arabia, education is strongly encouraged, and currently, as in many Western countries, women make up a greater percentage of university graduates. In many ways, attitudes are only a few decades behind those of Western countries, where up until the 60s, women were expected to marry right out of high school, have families rather than careers, dress modestly, etc. It sounds like the current situation of many Saudi women, doesn't it? So while it's true that many women in Saudi do stay home after having children, it's also true that many Western women would love to, but, financially, couldn't possibly. (As one Canadian nurse who worked in the Kingdom says, a Saudi woman told her that she felt sorry for her!) Or consider the abaya - the black cloak that women are required to wear, and which Westerners consider to be a symbol of oppression of Saudi Women. Sure, not everyone wants to wear one, but now that the hot days of summer are here, as I sit on the subway traveling to and from work, I frequently see quite portly women wearing skimpy, revealing clothing, and I think that sometimes abayas might be a good idea.
The world is a much varied and wonderful place to explore, and Helen has seen much of it. But, she wonders, have recent international events put a damper on others' desire to travel? more
Helen fondly remembers her first experience in the Kingdom more than 30 years ago, when she lived in the mountains of the western part of the Kingdom. more
Both Muslims and Christians have been undertaking pilgrimages for more than 1,000 years. Now, having completed the Camino de Santiago in Spain, I have been a pilgrim, too. more
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