Jeddah's old downtown quarter with its ancient, rickety-looking, coral-and-wood houses with the intricately latticed shutters sits serenely in the midst of dramatic, modern, high-rise office towers. This is an ancient, historic land. And then stroll along the sea wall by the Red Sea and feel the soft, moist sea wind and hear the crash of the incoming tide. Although thoroughly modern in many ways, Jeddah always appears to me to be somehow gentle and romantic.

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